The Slow Provence Guide: Where to Stay, Eat & Wander Near Avignon

Alma Tables Provence

Alma Tables in Provence

Manuela, Founder of Alma Tables, first came to the South of France like many do: with a love of sun-ripened tomatoes, open-air farmers markets, and dreamy lavender fields. Over time, she made it her home, and began hosting intimate dinners for women to gather and share conversation around the table.

We love how Alma Tables is connecting women in Provence. As an official Well in France Partner, our Members get to attend her dreamy dinners in Provence for a special price. We asked Manuela to design a perfect wellness week in the South. Here is her guide.

Manuela, Founder of Alma Tables

Most people come to Provence with a list. The villages to tick off, the restaurants to try, the photos to take for Instagram. I’d suggest doing a little less.

I’ve done all of the packed itineraries (and loved it). But somewhere along the way, I decided to stay. Provence stopped being somewhere I visited and became my home.

The things I’d have barely noticed before are the things that define this place: the sound of cicadas as the sun goes down, wild rosemary growing on the side of the road, and a table that somehow keeps making room for one more person. I spent years without even owning a dining table. Today, I run a business built around gathering people around one.

So this isn't a guide to seeing everything. It's a guide to experiencing the Provence I've come to love.

Where to stay

Chateau de Varenne

Chateau de Varenne by Claire Macintyre

I would stay just outside the city. Not because it's more convenient, but because it changes the pace of your trip entirely.

You wake up to birds instead of traffic. Breakfast drifts into a second coffee. By the time you head into town, you've already had the kind of morning people usually hope to squeeze in on holiday.

Two places I always recommend are Château de Varenne and Le Mas des Poiriers. Both are beautifully designed without feeling overly formal. They're also run by women who fell in love with this part of France and chose to build a life here.

Where to go

Les Alpilles, France

If there's one place I never get tired of, it's Les Alpilles. Olive groves stretch for miles and limestone cliffs catch the afternoon light. You’ll definitely want a car for this one.

The villages of Saint-Rémy-de-Provence and Eygalières are both worth visiting, but I would actually suggest getting slightly lost between them. There are walking trails between Eygalières and Aureille where you'll wander through olive orchards with the mountains rising behind them. Every so often, a herd of goats decides they're using the path too, and everyone simply waits.

Some of my favourite afternoons have been spent driving through the region with an old Italian playlist and no real destination.

Where to shop

If you love collecting pieces with a story, don't miss the brocante in Villeneuve-lès-Avignon. You might leave with nothing at all, or with an antique linen tablecloth you can't imagine living without. Expect woven baskets, old copper cookware, silver cutlery, ceramic pitchers and furniture that's already lived several interesting lives.

If you have the flexibility, visit outside summer. Winter and spring are quieter, so the sellers have more time to chat and here's less competition for the best finds.

Most vendors are happy to arrange shipping, so don't let suitcase space — or practicality — make your decisions for you.

Where to eat

Le relais du Castelet

My go-to in Avignon, is Bibendum. It’s relaxed, welcoming and consistently good.

Across the river in Villeneuve-lès-Avignon, I recommend Flo’s or La Cabane. Grab a gelato at Mamio after dinner for a romantic village stroll.

If you’re happy to drive a bit further and want something exceptional, Le Relais du Castelet is about forty minutes from Avignon. It’s definitely worth planning an afternoon around.

Wellness, the Provençal way

Domaine de Panery

One of the things I love most about Provence is that wellness doesn't feel like something you have to schedule.

It starts with opening the shutters in the morning.

Picking up strawberries at the market.

Sharing a simple lunch outside.

Staying in the garden until the light fades.

Even a visit to a local vineyard feels less about wine tasting than slowing down. Some of the most beautiful domaines in the region are worth visiting for the setting alone. I love Domaine de La Vallongue, tucked into the Alpilles. Domaine de Panéry near Uzès is special too. It’s half winery, half art gallery, and they even host the occasional yoga class.

If you'd like to slow down even more, many yoga teachers and massage therapists travel directly to your hotel or holiday home. Camille offers private yoga sessions, and Morgane is wonderful for massage treatments. 

A final thought

Living here has changed the way I travel.

I no longer try to see everything. I'd rather spend an extra hour at the market, linger over lunch, or take the longer road home because it looks beautiful.

So if you come here, leave a little space in your itinerary. The places you'll remember most probably won't be the ones you bookmarked months ago. They'll be the conversation you didn't expect, the village you stumbled across, or the evening that stretched long past sunset.

That's the Provence I hope you experience.

Domaine de Panery

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